Energy Savings

Heat Pump Auxiliary Heat Cost Calculator

Heat pump bills don't blow up because the heat pump is inefficient. They blow up because the resistance strips behind it switch on. Every article on this says AUX is "2–5× more expensive" and stops there — this works out what it actually cost you, and whether it's running more than it should.

What Did AUX Cost You?

On the air handler's data plate, often written as "KW" or as a heater kit number like HKR-10. If you can't find it, 10 kW is the usual default.

Typically 3–5 kW for a 2.5–3.5 ton residential unit. This is the compressor and fans, not the strips.

Ecobee, Nest and most smart thermostats report this directly in their monthly runtime report — look for "Aux Heat" or "Heat Stage 2". If you don't have that data, estimate from how many hours the AUX light was on during cold spells.

Total heating runtime minus the aux hours above. Same runtime report. A cold month often totals 300–450 hours.

Only if you manually selected EM HEAT on the thermostat. This runs strips alone with the heat pump off.

The warmest outdoor temperature at which you noticed the AUX indicator. Used to flag whether it's engaging earlier than it should.

Your Auxiliary Heat Bill

Why Strips Cost So Much More

A heat pump doesn't make heat, it moves it — delivering roughly 2.5 to 3.5 units of heat for every unit of electricity. Auxiliary strips are electric resistance, the same principle as a hair dryer, delivering exactly one unit per unit. So the strips aren't slightly worse, they're two to three times worse per unit of heat, and they draw far more power to boot.

At the 2026 U.S. average of 18.4¢/kWh, with a 4 kW heat pump and a 10 kW strip bank:

  • Heat pump alone: 4 kW → about 74¢/hour
  • Heat pump + 10 kW aux: 14 kW → about $2.58/hour (3.5× more)
  • Emergency heat, 15 kW strips alone: about $2.76/hour

A hundred hours of aux runtime in a cold month — which is not unusual during a prolonged freeze — adds roughly $184 to the bill. That's the whole explanation for "my heat pump bill doubled and I didn't touch the thermostat."

The most expensive button on your thermostat: EM HEAT. Auxiliary heat is automatic and runs alongside the heat pump. Emergency heat is manual and shuts the heat pump off, running on strips alone. Selecting it because it's cold outside throws away the efficient part of your system. It's meant for when the heat pump is broken.

When AUX Is Normal and When It Isn't

Some auxiliary runtime is expected and correct. A conventional heat pump's output falls as it gets colder, and at some outdoor temperature — the balance point — it can no longer match what the house is losing. Below that, strips fill the gap. Typical balance points:

  • Standard heat pump: roughly 30–40°F
  • Cold-climate / variable speed: often 5–15°F

Aux also runs briefly during defrost cycles, when the outdoor coil ices up and the system temporarily reverses to melt it. That's normal and short.

What isn't normal is AUX engaging at 45°F or above, or staying lit for hours in mild weather. The usual causes, roughly in order of how often they turn out to be the answer:

  • Thermostat lockout set wrong or missing. Many thermostats have an outdoor-temperature lockout that prevents strips running above a set point. If it was never configured, the strips are free to come on whenever the thermostat feels behind.
  • A large thermostat setback. Covered below — this is the one homeowners cause themselves.
  • Low refrigerant charge, which cuts capacity so the heat pump falls behind earlier than it should.
  • A failed defrost board or outdoor fan, leaving the coil iced and the system unable to produce heat.
  • A reversing valve stuck in cooling, in which case the heat pump is contributing nothing and strips are doing all the work.

A burning-dust smell when strips first run in autumn is normal. Continuous AUX in mild weather is a service call, not a setting.

The Setback Trap

This is the one that catches people who did everything else right, and it directly contradicts standard thermostat advice.

With a gas furnace, a deep overnight setback saves money — the furnace reheats the house quickly at its normal efficiency. With a heat pump, recovery is slow by design. A thermostat that wakes up and sees the house 8°F below setpoint concludes the heat pump can't cope and calls in the resistance strips to catch up. You then pay strip rates for the entire recovery period, which can exceed everything the setback saved overnight.

Practical guidance for heat pump owners: keep setbacks to 2–3°F rather than the 7–10°F that works for furnaces, and if your thermostat has an adaptive or smart recovery mode built for heat pumps, leave it enabled rather than running a manual schedule.

Our personal heating savings calculator and thermostat settings guide use the standard DOE setback rule, which assumes a furnace. If you have a heat pump with strips, treat those recommendations as an upper bound and scale down.

What Actually Reduces AUX Runtime

  • Set the outdoor lockout. Most thermostats let you specify a temperature above which strips cannot run. Setting it just below your balance point stops the strips being used as a shortcut on mild days. Worth asking your installer to configure if you're not sure.
  • Shrink or remove setbacks, per above.
  • Reduce the heat loss. Air sealing and insulation lower the balance point itself — a tighter house stays ahead of its losses to a colder outdoor temperature, so strips engage less often. See our insulation savings calculator.
  • Get the charge and defrost checked if AUX runs in mild weather. This is diagnosis, not efficiency tuning.
  • Change the filter. Restricted airflow makes the system fall behind and reach for strips. Cheapest thing on this list.

If you're weighing whether the heat pump was the right call at all, our heat pump vs furnace vs boiler comparison and heat pump economics without the tax credit cover the wider picture — and note that a well-configured heat pump that rarely touches its strips is still cheaper to run than resistance heat by a wide margin.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does auxiliary heat make my electric bill so high?

Because auxiliary heat is electric resistance — the same technology as a space heater or hair dryer — running at roughly 100 percent efficiency, while the heat pump itself delivers 2.5 to 3.5 units of heat per unit of electricity. A heat pump might draw 4 kW while running normally; add a 10 kW strip bank and the system pulls 14 kW. At the 2026 U.S. average of about 18.4 cents per kWh that is roughly 74 cents an hour versus 2.58 dollars an hour, about three and a half times more. A hundred hours of auxiliary runtime in a cold month adds around 184 dollars to a bill.

What is the difference between AUX heat and emergency heat?

Auxiliary heat is automatic — the thermostat brings the resistance strips on to help the heat pump when it cannot keep up, and the heat pump keeps running alongside them. Emergency heat is a manual setting that shuts the heat pump off entirely and runs on strips alone. Because the heat pump is the efficient part, emergency heat is almost always the more expensive of the two, and it is meant only for when the heat pump is broken. Switching to emergency heat simply because it is cold outside is one of the most expensive mistakes a heat pump owner can make.

At what temperature does auxiliary heat normally turn on?

For a conventional heat pump, typically somewhere between 30 and 40°F, which is where its output falls below what the house is losing. Cold-climate models with variable-speed compressors hold their own much lower, often to 5 to 15°F. If your AUX indicator is lighting up at 45°F or above, that is not normal — the usual causes are a thermostat lockout set wrong, a large thermostat setback forcing a fast recovery, low refrigerant charge, a stuck reversing valve, or an iced outdoor coil from a failed defrost cycle.

Should I turn down my thermostat at night with a heat pump?

Use much smaller setbacks than you would with a furnace, and let the thermostat manage recovery. A furnace can reheat a house quickly at normal efficiency, so a deep overnight setback saves money. A heat pump recovers slowly, and a thermostat that sees the house far below setpoint will call in the resistance strips to catch up — which can cost more than the setback saved. Two to three degrees is generally safe. If your thermostat has an adaptive or smart recovery feature designed for heat pumps, leaving it enabled is usually better than a manual schedule.